Caterina’s is testament that pure flavours and simplicity go hand in hand. Chef Marcello, a northerner, ensures authenticity by also drawing upon central and southern dishes.

Enter the underground dining room via large Art Deco gates where the wait staff, known for their discretion, look after a corporate clientele, as well as foodies. Lunch can be a lengthy affair or done simply 'espresso' style.

The dining room is classical with Venetian masks, antique pieces and industrial mirrors. Tablecloths signal tradition; bare marble tops incorporate informality.

An extensive menu is listed and recited. Classics include i crudi, pansoti, polenta and game. Vitello tonnato is a classic, wet roasted capretto and rabbit on buckwheat polenta mirrors regional food. Vegetarian dishes are given respect, relying on varying risotti including white asparagus. Nonna Stella's obligatory grappino and crostoli sets the tone.

Over 500 Italian, French and Australian wines are offered by the bottle.